French Revolution

Bistro de la Gare’s timely mix of tradition and inspiration is worth its weight in Freedom Fries.
by Lucinda Michele Knapp

The greatest democratization of haute French cuisine was not the relatively recent shift from overly precious nouvelle cuisine to a more robust cuisine de terroir. It was the mass decapitation of French aristocrats during the Revolution.

In was then that chefs, released from service in the houses of the French upper crust, were snapped up by wealthy merchants and nobility throughout Europe, creating a tasty diaspora of master chefs that brought French cookery to the whole of the western world—making it the first truly international style of cuisine.

It is with much appreciation that I salute the French Revolution’s Local Brotherhood of Executioners (LBE Chapter 1789) for making possible the now-global status of French cooking, and enabling me to enjoy a meal at Bistro de la Gare in South Pasadena that shows the current evolution of French cooking at its most contemporary.

Bistro de la Gare opened two months ago, adjacent to foodie funland Nicole’s Fine Foods, in the most aesthetically vintage district of South Pasadena, just adjacent to Mission and the Metro. Proprietors Eric Ulmer and Elda Marquez Ulmer used to run the stellar Café Beaujolais in Eagle Rock, which opened in 1997 and was a critic’s darling for its outstanding Gallic-to-the-core package, which included ambiance, a charmingly unintelligible (but attitude-free) waitstaff, and fantastic food. Previously they’d opened Downtown’s Angelique Café, my own personal fave for their glorious breakfasts. Word on the street was that their new restaurant didn’t measure up to Beaujolais’ glory, but most of the sniping came from competing restaurateurs, so I took it with the proverbial grain du sel.

Initial observations came in mixed. The corner dining room’s wide windows put diners on display for pedestrians outside, but also lent it a streetside café atmosphere sans exhaust fumes. The décor was warm and unobtrusive: the focus is on the food. The first arrival to the table, however, was concerning: the French bread, while crusty with a good crumb, wasn’t warm (I know hot bread’s an American affectation, but it’s so damn good!) and the butter was almost frozen. I was worried.

We were rescued by a second delivery of warm, fresh artisanal bread with rosemary and olives, the arrival of our salads, and the banishment of any worries. A classic Caesar ($6.95) was bright and vivid with a garlic tang in the dressing, a comforting, familiar favorite. The Salade D’Chevre Chaud (that’s “salad with warm goat cheese, you ‘opeless Amereecain) is a light meal unto itself and a particular highlight, its lightweight croutons of perfect French bread topped and toasted with browned goat cheese and herbs ($6.50). Its vinaigrette is a mélange of savory, buttery flavors with mild mustard lending a suggestion of white wine. For a girl who doesn’t particularly like salads (I know, what Californian doesn’t like salads? Well, me.) it was a welcome relief to encounter a salad I enjoyed as much as this one. I’m sure it’s largely due to the high calorie content of the dressing, but I’m willing to suffer an extra 10 minutes on the stationary bike to get actual leaves of lettuce inside me.

Especially refreshing—no pun intended—were the delicate sorbets that were provided between plates. The traditional palate-cleanser was a welcome contrast to the rich and robust flavors that dominate Bistro de la Gare’s offerings. Little antique pressed-glass cups, molded in the shape of hens and classical urns, held the smallest serving of raspberry sorbet. It was a detail that helped make the meal special and smoothed the corners from soup to salad to entree.

And the entrees arrived with flourish, presented by our enthusiastic and utterly charming waiter. My dinner guest’s Saumon a L’estragon (salmon with tarragon, $18) conveyed the rare favor upon the much-abused fish: in a day and age when salmon’s often overcooked, seasoned beyond recognition or doused with syrupy-sweet sauces, ours arrived tender, with the fish’s own unique, wine-sweet flavor and a subtle dispersion of bright notes from finely minced parsley and herbs. The tarragon’s anise-like twist paired perfectly with the multilayered flavors of the fish. Accompanying this was a pillowy cloud of mashed potatoes (light and not too buttery) with sweet, summery matchstick carrots. The filet mignon Bordelaise ($22.50) was a bit of a heartbreak: the cut itself was oddly stringy. It was flawlessly cooked, however, with gorgeous color (we ordered it medium) and a perfectly crusted and browned exterior. Once again, the flavor of the meat was enhanced, not obscured, by the sauce—in this case a St. Emilon reduction with shallots and finely chopped mushrooms, a sauce which owner Eric tells me is simmered for a full 24 hours before serving. Now that’s commitment. The beef arrived beautifully plated with roasted grape tomatoes. A side dish of terrine-molded gratin arrived with a golden-brown crust, mild cheese flavor and a gloriously garlicky taste. An extra oomph was added with a fresh hint of nutmeg, an essential to gratin that’s sadly neglected elsewhere. Excellent with both our dishes was the Stonewood Cabernet Sauvignon ($6/glass) from Bistro de la Gare’s excellent wine list; I also recommend Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon and the St. Emilion, “Château Guerin Bellevue” ($8.50/glass).

Dessert was an utter joy. My companion ordered the special of the night, a napoleon architecturally assembled with crisp, snowflake-delicate cocoa wafers (reminiscent of Italian pizzelle), caramel, and decoratively piped chocolate crème. It arrived looking like nothing so much as the Capitol Records building and adorned with strawberries, a chocolate lover’s answer to existential angst. The traditional French treat ile flottante, or Floating Island, was a magical confection, with dense, velvety meringue piled in two small mounds set afloat on a small bowl of vanilla cream; each little island was caged in a golden spiderweb of molten sugar that had been drizzled over each meringue to harden into a gilded net. It was a surprisingly light treat, and was complemented well by a bracing espresso. Also offered were profiteroles and an apple tart (a’ la` mode, but of course).

Despite these fantastic desserts, our favorite part of dinner was, hands down, the Gratinée a L’Onion($6.95)—the ubiquitous French onion soup with crouton and melted cheese. Bistro de la Gare’s is a paragon of the species, perfectly balanced, not too rich or too salty, not glopped over with too much cheese or overwhelmed with bread, a model of restraint paired with robust flavor all at once.

So raise those glasses to the French Revolution; but stay the guillotine, because Bistro de la Gare’s minor gaffes aren’t worth decapitating them over. The overwhelming impression is of a great date night, a destination for lovers of French food without the pretense, and a refreshing efflorescence of tradition.    LAA

Location: 921 Meridian Ave., South Pasadena.
Phone: (626) 799-8828
Vibe: Upscale but not snooty.
Service: Enthusiastic and helpful.
Price: $$$
Recommended Dishes: Salade D’Chevre Chaud ($6.50), Filet Mignon Bordelaise St. Emilon ($22.50), Gratinée a L’Onion ($6.95), Saumon a L’estragon ($18) and the Floating Island dessert.
Etc: Open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner starting at 5 p.m.
Other Info: The dining room can be a bit loud, so for a romantic dinner for two, get a secluded table. Always pay attention to the specials: they really are.
Credit Cards: All major.
Overall Rating: 4 out of 5 sporks