The Big Easy

L.A. celebrates Mardi Gras, sending good vibes to a struggling New Orleans.
by Maria Gonzalez

In New Orleans, the days leading up to the start of Easter have long been about parading through the French Quarter and surrounding neighborhoods, where locals and out-of-towners mingle and share a taste of Cajun food and spicy music. The outrageous pre-Lenten celebration stands out as one of the world’s most famous parties, as the Catholic observance of Christ’s death and resurrection approaches. The city typically draws thousands of tourists eager for a taste of unique Carnival bacchanalia.

This year, New Orleans has a tough row to hoe. The aftermath of Katrina has left the city hamstrung. Citizens can barely cope with rebuilding their own lives, let alone opening New Orleans to thousands of partiers who will undoubtedly add even more urine to the already soiled streets. And it’s hard to summon up Mardi Gras’ spirit of carefree abandon when the populace has been witness to such tragedy. Less than half its pre-Katrina populace has returned home. With funding limited, this year’s event has been scaled back from its usual 12 days to eight, culminating on Fat Tuesday, Feb. 28th. For the first time in 150 years of Carnival, the cash-poor, spirit-rich city is looking to corporate sponsors to underwrite Mardi Gras. So far, its found only one: Glad Products, maker of trash bags.

It’s not yet known how many tourists will attend Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but for those who stay home in La-La Land, there are a few events to get in the spirit:

Saturday the 25th will see a Brazilian-style Carnival aboard the Queen Mary, with samba shows, dancers, and an open invite to any Angeleno wishing to don a costume. Olvera Street will host a Mardi Gras celebration on Fat Tuesday, the 28th. On the 24th, the Fowler Museum hosts a family masquerade, while next door at UCLA, students and museum-goers alike have to wait until April 8th to participate in “Carnavale UCLA: A World Tribute To New Orleans.” April 8th is too far away, you say? Just as revelers in Louisiana and Brazil get an early start on the festivities, you can start by heading to West Los Angeles on Friday to hear L.A.’s only samba school perform.

The Mocidade Independente Los Angeles Samba School was founded nearly 20 years ago and brings 20 percussionists, singers and dancers to Café Danssa every Friday night for a taste of Carnival. The night starts with a samba lesson, and is followed by live drumming and singing for a chance to show off your new dance moves. Moves start slowly and progress into advanced hip shaking and foot shuffling. One dance instructor recommends wearing light clothing and comfortable shoes with smooth soles. The music and dancing goes on until 2 a.m., but the lesson’s such a workout you might find yourself calling it an early night.

Switch gears on Saturday and Sunday with a visit to the Farmers Market on 3rd and Fairfax. Vendors will summon the flavor of New Orleans with Creole jambalaya and gumbo. There’s dancing, live Cajun music and plenty of beads and masks to go around. On Tuesday, Mr. T’s Bowl in Highland Park holds its third annual Mardi Gras celebration, and patrons are encouraged to wear costumes, masks and beads. Admission is free but visitors are asked to bring a Cajun dish for a potluck dinner. To live it up Brazilian-style, head to Santa Monica for the sixth annual Big Fatty-Fat Tuesdays at The Temple Bar. Musical acts showcase groups that blend traditional Brazilian sounds with modern beats.

And raise a glass to N’awlins as you celebrate-with locals and tourists alike-the spirit of a city that refuses to give in.   LAA

Café Danssa, West Los Angeles
11533 W. Pico Blvd.
(310) 478-7866

Farmer’s Market
6333 W. 3rd St.
(323) 933-9211

Temple Bar, Santa Monica
1026 Wilshire Blvd.
(310) 393-6611

Mr. T’s Bowl, Highland Park
5621 N Figueroa St.
(323) 256-7561

RMS Queen Mary, Long Beach
1126 Queens Highway
(562) 435-3511

Fais Do Do, Los Angeles
5257 West Adams Blvd.
(323) 954-8080

Olvera Street, Downtown
845 N. Alameda St.
(213) 680-2525

The Fowler Museum of Cultural History
at West Sunset Blvd. and Westwood Plaza, inside UCLA
(310) 825-4361