Lu-Wow!

Roy’s Hawaiian cuisine defies the usual pitfalls of chain eateries.
by Jeff Hoyt

Outside of California, how many of the other 49 states can boast of their own cuisine? Sure there’s New England Clam Chowder, Tex-Mex and Southern Fried Chicken, but those are regional descriptors. People used to order buckets of Kentucky Fried Chicken when the Colonel was still alive, but now it’s simply KFC. There’s Baked Alaska, and everyone knows that in Florida they cook elections, but no one raves about Connecticut cuisine, or North Dakota dining. People around the world are too busy chowing down at the 190 California Pizza Kitchens, including diners in Shanghai and Kuala Lumpur.

Tokyo-born Roy Yamaguchi filled a niche in 1988 by opening an eponymous Hawaiian Fusion restaurant, featuring plenty of pineapple, coconut, macadamia nuts and fresh seafood. The flagship restaurant was a hit, despite its location: Roy’s was based in Honolulu, which seemed to be the culinary equivalent of carrying coals to Newcastle.

Hawaiian cooking is catching on: Ma’Kai in Santa Monica is now offering a monthly Luau for Westsiders, and Yamaguchi has opened 31 Roy’s Restaurants, including branches in Woodland Hills and downtown L.A. that opened last year.

Outside Roy’s newest, at the corner of 8th and Flower St., lights project “Roy’s Hawaiian Fusion” onto the sidewalk. Inside, visitors will have trouble hearing the recorded Hawaiian music over the din of people enjoying themselves, but they will hear the word “Aloha” a lot. The distinctive, bright red-orange décor is inviting and cheery, like the Tiki Ti on mood elevators.

In front, track lighting illuminates the dark granite bar, where between flat-screen televisions, chunks of pineapple are soaking in large containers of vodka to help make Roy’s Signature Hawaiian martini ($10). The pineapple-infused vodka is combined with vanilla-flavored vodka and Malibu coconut rum to make a powerful-yet-smooth concoction that puts one in an island frame of mind. Be warned, though: they go down easy, and a few of those will bomb you like Pearl Harbor, leaving you completely destroyed the next morning.

For those who enjoy the taste of alcohol, Roy’s Secret Mai Tai ($9.50)-featuring Malibu Mango rum and tropical fruit juices, with a threatening cloud of dark rum floating on top-is refreshing with a bite. Topped with a pineapple and a cherry, the tropical drink is much better than those served at Trader Vic’s. While the Mai Tai is not too sweet, the same cannot be said of Roy’s Lava Flow ($9.50), a cloying piña colada derivative made with fresh pineapple and strawberry puree.

An impressive wine “cellar” is visible through glass next to the bar, but even more impressive are the wine prices. Bottle prices start at just $25, and there are half a dozen choices under $30. There are only two choices for sake, though, either $65/bottle, or $10/glass.

The reasonable prices continue on the food menu, where three-course meals are available for the astonishing price of just $33. These include an appetizer sampler of shrimp, baby back ribs and lobster potstickers, a choice of entree including steak and salmon, and even a choice of two desserts.

The Szechuan baby back pork ribs-a signature dish at all Roy’s-are spiced, braised, smoked over applewood, and drenched in Mongolian barbecue sauce. Flavorful with a hint of fruit, they are so moist and tender they nearly fall off the bone. The lobster potsticker, which also contains whitefish and shrimp, is sweet, greasy and delicious, with the subtle lobster flavor still noticeable and enjoyable through the tangy orange sauce.

While most edamame is served plain, Roy gives his added zing by coating them in inamona jus made from ginger, soy, and ground kukui nuts, the same ones that adorn the necks of surfers and surfer-wannabes.

Roy’s excels in fresh seafood made with bold Asian spices paired with European-style sauces. The lemongrass-crusted shutome ($25), a flaky white swordfish-like denizen of the deep, is beautifully presented and served with a powerful Thai peanut sauce. The accompanying, lightly fried banana is so sweet, it’s as if a little dessert had snuck onto the dinner plate. The roasted macadamia nut mahi mahi ($26)-one of Roy’s classic dishes-is moist even without the delicate lobster butter sauce, while the nuts and underlying potato slice add complex textures. Outstanding shellfish/crustacean dishes include the Black Tiger Shrimp ($19) mildly spiced with Togarashi (a Japanese chile), and Caramelized Sea Scallops ($26) served over a fantastic Preserved Lemon Risotto dotted with spinach that would make a fine vegetarian meal by itself.

Even in exclusive restaurants, I cannot remember ever being asked how I wanted my scallops prepared. The service is not only impeccable, but courteous and cost-conscious. Having the napkin placed in one’s lap is a nice touch, but having tap water poured before asking if we wanted bottled water is refreshing in a town where many restaurants try to upsell the customer through every course. With our sushi order, chopsticks were offered and brought to the table still protected by their paper wrappings. Instead of having to open them up ourselves, the server ripped the paper and presented them to us in such a way that we never touched the paper, and she never touched the wood. When another chopstick-friendly dish arrived at the table, the ritual was repeated with fresh wooden implements. The customer care even carries over to the men’s room, where a flat-panel TV over the urinal means guys won’t have to miss a rare Kobe pass when they gotta go.

At most Asian restaurants there is no need to save room for dessert, but Roy’s offers a few that reward the effort. “Roy’s Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé” ($8.50)-offered as part of the prix fixe dinner-is a rich chocolate cake with a warm, moist filling that is a notch above your typical “lava cake.”

Although eating at Roy’s is not cheap, diners can enjoy a quality meal of fresh ingredients, top-notch service, white tablecloths and cloth napkins at a reasonable price. And while it is more expensive than KFC and CPK, it is a lot cheaper than a flight to Honolulu. Aloha. LAA

Location: 800 S. Figueroa St., Downtown L.A.
Telephone: (213) 488-4994.
Vibe: Lu-wow!
Service: Top-notch and friendly.
Price: Three-course meals available for $33. Dinner, Appetizers and Salads: $6 to $13; Entrees: $19 to $38; Desserts: $6.50-$8.50.
Recommended dishes: Lemongrass-crusted shutome ($25); roasted macadamia nut mahi mahi ($26); Togarashi-Spiced Black Tiger Shrimp ($19); Caramelized Sea Scallops ($26).
Etc: Open Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10 p.m., Fri-Sat 5-10:30 p.m., Sun 5-9:30 p.m. Limited street parking; valet parking $5.50, lot across street $5; full bar; reservations recommended; all major credit cards accepted.
Overall: 3.5 out of 5 sporks