Dial M for Macro

M Café’s macrobiotic cuisine doesn’t taste like prescribed medicine.
by Jackie Lam

On Melrose Ave., in a small lot near the La Brea and Melrose intersection of Pink’s hotdog fame, nestles M Café de Chaya, a macrobiotic eatery. As a culinary fare bearing a name that is a compound of economic and scientific sounding terms, I was initially swept with a feeling of uneasiness. It’s a cooking method that goes by the rules of no refined sugar, eggs, dairy, poultry or red meat, but does use fish. The notion of macrobiotics conjured a ghastly image akin to a B-horror flick. Visions of stone-hard cubes and bitter, green foliage poured from a bag of rabbit food, set against the sounds of Enya filtered through my mind as my dining companion and I made our way into the restaurant.

As we walked past the enclosed patio into the front entrance, the horrific image dissipated, replaced by more of a dream sequence: Soft, ambient lighting and a deli case filled to the brim with rows upon rows of inari colorfully topped with eggplant, stacked panino sandwiches in a perfect geometric arrangement, glistening grilled salmon, deli salads and an array of desserts (and that was just their take-out section). It was like being a kid in a candy store, except this was with stuff that would do you good, not rot your insides.

And like a candy store filled with all sorts of goodies to please the palate, M Café achieves this sensation of overabundance by offering a dining menu from different ethnic styles and an array of ingredients. From a breakfast menu to rice bowls to both hot and deli-style sandwiches, wraps and burgers, the selection leaves little room for epicurean wanderlust.

After we placed our order at the eat-in counter with a member of the friendly staff, we made our way to one of the round tables that were lined against the wall. For larger parties or folks who are just feeling extra gregarious, a rectangular table with dangling lights is situated at one far end of the eating area. With a ‘form fits function’ approach, the décor is minimal, and the simple oak furniture and warm lighting let us nestle in, comfortable and homey.

Their large selection of beverages includes coffee house drinks such as cafix ($2.50), a caffeine-free grain drink similar to coffee, a carafe of iced minty green or barley tea ($2.25) and their own specialty blends of fresh squeezed fruit and veggie juices ($4.75). My companion had the kukicha ($3), an aromatic, subtly sweet twig tea while I tried a bottled Fizzy Lizzy ($3.75) of the Fuji apple variety.

Their entrees are taken from both regional faire, such as the Carolina-Style Barbecued Seitan Sandwich ($11) and international such as the Madras Tempeh Wrap ($10.25), with masala-baked tempeh, brown basmati rise and the Grilled Tuna Burger ($13.75) with glazed teriyaki sauce and daikon sprouts. Some of the sandwiches and wraps can be ordered as a half alongside some soup or salad, and we tried the Melrose Avenue Muffaletta ($8.95) with the Creamy Carrot soup. A monster of a sandwich, it was replete with an alternating stack of grilled seitan, spicy seitan “salami,” roasted veggies, and their miso-cured tofu cheese, which was surprisingly ricotta-like in texture. Also tasty was Panino Provancale ($10.95) with arugula, grilled veggies, tofu cheese and pesto sauce in panini bread that’s grilled to order.  The California Club Sandwich was a personal favorite. A triple-decker of the good ole’ BLT, but with crispy tempeh “bacon,” generous slices of avocado, thinly-sliced carrots, alfalfa sprouts with soy mayo, it seemed to hit all the right places. We had one of their soups of the day, the Creamy Carrot (small for $3.50); its tiny hint of cumin and bisque consistency made you want to have more of it to figure out what made it so tasty.

They also offer the option of getting a two-to-four salad combo ($6.95 to $11.50), which really showcases the breadth of their selection. From the quinoa salad made with the raw grain found in South America, tiny cubes of cucumber, dill and lemon juice, to the chickpeas and dandelion salad with tahini dressing, to the kale with creamy peanut dressing, every bite was utter perfection.

Their dessert menu was ample, ranging from tarts to cakes and truffles. The strawberry shortcake ($5.95), with its layers of white cream and generous slices of strawberries, was a satisfying ending to our gastronomical journey.

Although it was a drizzly evening, which has many Angelenos crying “monsoon” and staying home, everyone from industry types to retired residents punctuated a steady rhythm of foot traffic in M Café’s interior.  And if you can get people to come out from their natural disaster precautionary stage and come out to eat fake meat, that says plenty enough about your joint.   LAA

Location: 7119 Melrose Ave., Hollywood.
Phone: (323) 525.0588
Vibe: A comforting bustle.
Service: Speedy and congenial.
Price: $9-15
Recommended Dishes: California Club ($10.95), any of their deli salads (prices vary).
Etc.: Open 7 days, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Free parking.
Other Info: They like to change things up a bit with their take-out menu, expect surprises.
Credit Cards: All Major.
Overall Rating:  4 out of 5 sporks