Joint Gets Rolling

The Vegan Joint in Palms is a divine intervention of meatless wonders.
by Jackie Lam

As a vegetarian residing in Palms, an area of the Westside that’s a mundane, urban miscellany of condensed brown blocks of apartment complexes and iron-barred middle schools, my food requisites are hard to come by. On most evenings, when I am Whole Foods-less and reluctant to leave the prime parking spot I have to routinely wrangle over with a neighbor, I am left with my non-meat scavenging skills, prowling my ’hood for anything suitable to consume. I have, with unwavering persistence, scoured the local market shelves and restaurant menus of the eateries in what my friends and I call “downtown Palms,” the small strip of shops and restaurants where National and Motor Boulevards meet. And after growing tired of the ‘Veggie Delight’ at the pizzeria down the street, and getting over my initial elation at discovering gluten wheat at the Asian market, my taste buds wilt.

The recent opening of the Thai-based Vegan Joint is like a deus ex machina, descended from the epicurean heavens to relieve my taste buds of their suffering. Its sign, a prominent presence on the street corner, is a playful photo with a long row of sundry vegetables emblazoned on the bottom.

Upon entering, the interior is a sight that’s familiar to those who frequent Thai restaurants: a mini-altar with a statue of the goddess Nang Kwak, with her knees bent and right hand outstretched. Deep burgundy walls mottled with white paint are set against chairs with bamboo frames, making the dining room glow in comforting, rich hues. Owner Hnoi Petmunee is a petite, sprightly woman whose smile is as constant as the “Today’s Specials” sign on the side of their freezer.

As I wait for my dining companion, the foot traffic begins to pick up. Petmunee greets many of the incoming diners by their first name. This woman seems to have a rolodex of her clientele inscribed in her mind.

The back of the menu, with an image of a face constructed with a red pepper smile and lime halves for eyes, reads, “You are what you eat, eat well.” Everything here is organic and vegan, with no refined sugar or MSG added. Their large menu is impressive, with Thai-based dishes, such as traditional noodles, curries with soy meat, stir-fry veggie plates as well as a hefty variety of wraps and salads. And for those who enjoy breakfast at any hour, they have a selection of breakfast yummies like wheat-free pancakes and breakfast burritos with “egz” and casein-free vegan cheese that are served all day.

Their beverages include the astringent immunity-booster kombucha ($3.95) and coconut palm juice ($1.50) that is served in its shell. I started with the fresh spring rolls ($4.95) with rectangular slabs of seitan and familiar slivers of carrots and noodles wrapped in soft rice paper.

Their leafier plates, like the chef and garden salads, are common ones but they’ve added a nuance to boost it to “Vegan Joint signature status.” For instance, the garden salad ($6.95) has tidbits of avocado and sunflower seeds. The Oriental Tossed Salad ($6.95) is a behemoth of edible greens, a thick bed of romaine and Napa cabbage foliage, thickly sliced wheels of cucumber with grilled cubes of tofu, and a wonderful mess of seasoned shiitake mushrooms and silver noodles. Of the four types of dressing they offer (tahini, honey, peanut and Italian), I opted for the slightly sweet and nutty peanut dressing, which was not needed as the bits of red beets gave a sweet enough punch.

After our fill of greens, the Shitake Curry ($7.95) was a brilliant dish, hot in spice as well as temperature. You can order it with a choice of tofu or more designer fake meats: soy chicken, soy fish, seitan or pepper steak. Accompanied by a cute half-dome of brown rice, the generous slices of shitake mushroom and eggplant languished in a pool of spicy red curry and a creamy coconut milk base. Slender bamboo shoots and shriveled pieces of basil floated like driftwood. The result was divine.

I tried the chicken wrap ($5.95) with tender, deep-fried slabs of soy chicken and slices of avocado, red-leaf lettuce, tomato and crisp alfalfa sprouts wrapped in a warm, toasty chapati flatbread. Drizzled with tahini dressing, the moist and dry elements reached equilibrium.

The Vegan Joint also houses a large variety of sandwiches ($3.95-$4.95) such as the Cowboy Burger with wheat meat, and the Lentil Burger with a seasoned patty of lentils and brown rice. The BLT ($3.95) was a bit on the bland side, with bacon bits and huge chunks of vegan cheese awkwardly wedged on two slices of thin, flimsy white bread. Their veggie meat dinners ($8.95) include a side order of steamed veggies and brown rice or grilled potatoes and you can choose from Fish, Pepper Steak or Lentil Loaf.

The dessert menu features No Udder Desserts ($4), miniature loaf chocolate and carrot cakes in corrugated wax paper topped with wispy shreds of coconut or finely chopped nuts.

The Vegan Joint is an oasis for both local Palms denizens and the desiccated passers-by who are thirsty for some camaraderie and need a break from the smoggy mess of the I-10. Take a pit stop for your soul. LAA

Location: 10438 National Blvd., Los Angeles.
Phone: (310) 559-1357.
Vibe: Homey.
Service: Warm and accommodating.
Parking: Sparse street parking.
Price: $
Recommended Dishes: Fresh Spring Rolls ($4.95), Chicken Wrap ($5.95), Shitake Curry ($7.95), Oriental Tossed Salad ($6.95).
Etc: Open Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Closed Tuesdays.
Overall: 4 out of 5 sporks